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With ‘sable’ being French for sand, this fruit comes from the sandier side of Daniel Bouland’s plot, organically-farmed Gamay vines in the Morgon. This is wine of great wonder, and every bit as captivating as, say, sought-after Burgundy. Gnarled old vines, tended to with gnarled young hands. Driven by bloody plum, lifted with perfume.